|
Peter Habeler 彼德 哈伯勒
他的同伴梅斯纳尔说: 他象一个火箭,一旦点火,就光芒四射。
他1942年生于蒂罗尔的Maryhofen,6岁开始登山,21岁得到向导和教练证书。
19世纪60年代,哈伯勒和梅斯纳尔开始了他们辉煌的登山生涯。首先在1969年登上了Yerupaja的东壁,并首登了南美的Yerupaja Chico。1974年以破记录的10小时从北壁登上了Eiger峰。
1975年他们攀登转向高山攀登。轻装上阵成了标志性的登山方法。1978年的无氧登山是他们最后一次合作。
哈伯勒在Maryhofen开办了他自己的攀登和滑雪学校。
登山经历:
1966~Yerupaja Yerupaja Chico(第一次)
1974~Eiger north face
1976~加舒尔布鲁木1GasherbrumI
1978~珠峰MountEverest(第一次无氧)
1996~
1996~普木里Pumori
His one time partner, nhold Messner, used to say of Peter Habeler: -"He"s like a sky rocket, really impressive once the fuse is lit!".
Born in Maryhofen in the Austrian Tyrol in 1942, he took up climbing at the age of six, and the time he was 21 had become a certified mountain guide and skiing instructor.
In the mid-1960s, Habeler began a fruitful climbing partnership with Reinhold Messner. The two gained their fist high altitude experience in 1969 with an ascent of the east face of Yerupaja, and on Yerupaja Chico in South America. In 1974 they climbed the Eiger north face in what was then a record time of ten hours. In 1975 their Hidden Peak climb turned the tide of high altitude climbing. The lightweight "fair means" ascent became the stylistic ideal. The first oxygenless ascent of Everest in 1978 was the last climb of partnership.
Today Habeler runs his own alpine and ski school in Mayhofen.
SELECTED CLIMBS
1966 - Yerupaja
1966 - Yerupaja Chico (first ascent)
1974 - Eiger north face
1976 - Gasherbrum I
1978 - Mount Everest (first ascent without supplemental oxygen)
1996 - Ama Dablam
1996 - Pumori
2000 - Mount Everest (attempt)
Yerupaja Chico峰
eiger峰 |
|