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Jerzy "Jurek" Kukuczka 捷西 杰里克 库库奇卡
Jerzy "Jurek" Kukuczka,1948年生于波兰的Katowice。1989年10月24日,在南壁8200米处失踪。
他和梅斯纳尔比赛,谁先登完全部14座8000米高峰,他晚一年登完。
他的壮举在于他开创了9条新路线,一次单人登顶,5次法,4次在冬季。
他的实力在于他超常的毅力。他的同伴Voytek Kurtyka说: 杰里克是我遇见的者中最坚强的,突出在于他忍受痛苦和藐视危险的能力。同时,他着魔于一种领先他人的内心冲动。象他这样的人,遇到障碍时,不是粉碎困难,就是撞破自己的头。
Jerzy Kukuczka创造了登顶14座8000最短时间的记录:8年!
登山经历:
1979~洛子Lhotse
1980~Mount Everest
1981~马卡鲁Makalu(单人)
1982~布洛阿特Broad Peak
1983~加舒尔布鲁木2GasherbrumII、加舒尔布鲁木1GasherbrumI
1984~布洛阿特Broad Peak
1985~道拉吉里Dhaulagiri、卓奥友Cho Oyu、南迦帕尔巴特Nanga Parbat、干城章嘉Kangchenjunga
1986~乔戈里K2、马那斯鲁Manaslu
1987~安那普尔纳1AnnapurnaI、希夏邦马Shisha Pangma
1989~洛子Lhotse(遇难)
Jerzy "Jurek" Kukuczka, born in Katowice / Poland 1948. Lost on the South Face of Lhotse in October 24, 1989 at an altitude of 8,200 metres.
Competed against nhold Messner to become the first to climb all 8,000:ers, finished one year later. On his pursuit he made nine new routes, including one solo, five climbs in alpine style and four in the winter.
His strength as a climber was an uncanny mental stamina. His climbing partner Voytek Kurtyka says about Kukuczka -"Jurek was the greatest psychological rhinoceros I"ve ever met among alpinists, unequalled in his ability to suffer and in his lack of responsiveness to danger. At the same time, he possessed that inner compulsion to press ahead. Characters like that, when they meet
an obstacle, strike against it until they either crush it or break their own necks."
8000+ CLIMBS
1979~Lhotse
1980~Mount Everest
1981~Makalu (solo)
1982~Broad Peak
1983~Gasherbrum II
1983~Gasherbrum I
1984~Broad Peak
1985~Dhaulagiri
1985~Cho Oyu
1985~Nanga Parbat
1986~Kangchenjunga
1986~K2
1986~Manaslu
1987~Annapurna I
1987~Shisha Pangma
1989~Lhotse (killed during attempt)
安那普尔纳
洛子峰南壁 |
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